The replica Rolex Submariner reference 6204 is widely recognized as the first model in the now legendary Submariner series. The watch quickly became a huge success and shared some features with its contemporary, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The classic design included a black dial, while indexes and hands were filled with radium to be luminescent.
However, the Rolex 6204 encountered a challenge when it came to the twist ring. Blancpain had a patent for a design where the twist ring could only be turned in one direction, so Rolex had to settle for a twist ring that could be turned in both directions until the 1980s, when Blancpain’s patent expired.
Despite this limitation, Rolex had an innovation of their own that gave them a significant advantage: a highly water-resistant crown. The crown, which was fitted with two O-rings and screwed in, convincingly increased the watch’s water resistance. This allowed Rolex to launch the first fake rolex watches rated for a depth of 100 meters.
The early Submariner models went through several design changes before Rolex settled on an iconic style in 1959 with the reference 5512. This design, which would last for half a century, included a 40mm case and Mercedes hands, among other things. The watch worn by James Bond, reference 5513, was a simpler version without COSC certification, but otherwise the two models were very similar.
A total of eight different Submariner models had been launched before the 5512, and with this model Rolex combined the best elements of its previous efforts. The basic aesthetic remained the same until 2010, when the so-called “super case” was introduced and the Submariner became slightly larger. Over the years, however, certain changes were made, such as the transition from stainless steel 316L to 904L, with all the advantages and disadvantages that entailed.
Submariner timeline
1953 – Rolex introduces the Submariner diving watch.
1959 – Case increases to 40mm and crown guard added.
1967 – Change from gilded to matte dials.
1969 – Rolex introduces the Submariner Date; first gold Submariner.
1979 – First sapphire glass on a Submariner watch.
1984 – Switch from matte to glossy dial with white gold markers; first two-tone Submariner.
1988 – Change from 316L to 904L stainless steel for the Submariner
2003 – First Submariner with green bezel (ref. 16610LV)
2010 – Cerachrom bezel and Super Case design introduced.
2020 – Case increases to 41 mm and the band horns are redone.